Olinda: History

In 1537, the donatary (landowner) of the Captaincy, Duarte Coelho, founded the town of Olinda, establishing it as the capital.

This is where we make our first stop: welcome to Olinda!

Even its name is intriguing, with several versions explaining its origin. It may have been Duarte Coelho’s exclamation when he first laid eyes on the stunning view from atop the hills. Or perhaps it came from a character in a novel, or even as a tribute to a Portuguese village.

The Historic Centre of Olinda, also known as the Upper Town, forms part of a large protected area due to its historical and cultural heritage. This is where the sugar mill owners lived — wealthy men who profited from the expansion and export of sugar production, which was shipped out through the port of Olinda, known as Recife.

We haven’t yet mentioned the Dutch, who played a very important role in the history of the Brazilian Northeast — so let’s turn to them now.

For many years, the Captaincy of Pernambuco was a major sugar producer and accounted for over half of the country’s exports. This prosperity drew the attention of the Dutch, who invaded and occupied a large part of Pernambuco between 1630 and 1654. They envisioned a Dutch Brazil, administered by Count Maurice of Nassau, who initially settled in Olinda for a year but disliked it — he set it on fire and then abandoned it, choosing instead to establish Recife as his capital.

After the Dutch were expelled from Brazil, Olinda resumed its role as the capital of Pernambuco. However, with the decline of the sugar economy and constant rivalry with Recife — which was becoming increasingly prosperous — the city took on a new character, becoming a retreat for aristocrats and members of the clergy.

(We will return later to the Dutch, who left an almost indelible mark on the history of the State of Pernambuco.)

Olinda remained in complete stagnation throughout the 19th century, with no growth whatsoever. These periods of stagnation in colonial towns often end up contributing to their architectural preservation — much like what happened in Ouro Preto, but that’s a subject for another training session… Olinda’s revival only came in the 20th century, driven by its tourism potential.

Aerial View of Olinda Lighthouse, Brazil